In the previous post, we asked the question, “Is it too late to start preparing?” While we couldn’t answer that without a crystal ball, we did look at some resources to improve one’s state of preparedness and then I suggested using the getting ready for a camping trip exercise as a quick start to stage some carry-able items that could be gathered at a moment’s notice to bug in or bug out – a kit of sorts that could be built upon and improved. I should have known that would lead to the inquiries I immediately received. Inquiries like, “What pack should I get and what should I put in it?” And so here we are.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, I’m not an authority on the topic of preparedness or survival. I know a few things and have put several preparedness and survival principles into practice for my family and myself, but that’s where my expertise stops. It would be accurate to consider me a practitioner or layman.

Nevertheless, I’ll offer my thoughts on what I would put in what I will call a survival pack because to me a bug out bag or a get home bag are the same thing. It’s a collection of resources that increase my likelihood to safely get to a specific location quickly, or signal and wait for assistance, in emergency conditions which may be austere.

There is a caveat here that is important to call out: the suggestions and thoughts here are limited to my local environment which is the central Texas region. Keep that in mind while reading this and consider your environment when building your survival pack.

Principles

Principles are important because they enable better critical thinking. Good critical thinking guides and informs plan and decision making which yields better plans and better decisions. Let’s look at three principles that are important in the context of building a survival pack.

Rule of Three

There are many things that can kill us, but there are only four ways those things will kill us. Some ways kill us faster than others. As such, it’s important to remember that we can only survive for:

• Three (3) minutes without air (or in icy waters),
• three (3) hours without shelter,
• three (3) days without water,
• and three (3) weeks without food.

The “Rule of Three” is a rule of thumb. For example, exsanguination results in death due to the lack of oxygen delivered to the brain. A severed artery can lead to loss of consciousness within seconds so we really don’t have three minutes to deal with that. The point is that we don’t have a lot of time to stop a serious bleed from an injury or to get out of icy waters. As such, it is beneficial to prioritize space for resources that directly deal with things that kill us faster and pack them in such a way that we can get to them quickly over resources that deal with things that kill us slower.

10 C’s of Survival Plus One

The 10 C’s of Survival (plus one) is a set of essential items to carry in a survival kit. I’m not certain who first coined the concept, but I have seen several adaptations of it. The version of it that I’m most familiar with is:

• Cutting (tools)
• Combustion
• Cordage
• Container
• Cover
• Compass (maps)
• Candle (lighting)
• Casualty care
• Combat
• Communications
• Calories

Each item in the kit should fall into one of these categories. Items from these categories can be combined to form different systems, such as, a water kit, a fire kit, a sleeping kit, a signaling kit, a trauma kit, and so on. The kits function together to combat the threats to survival covered by the Rule of Three. Some items serve purposes in multiple kits.

Ounces are Pounds and Pounds are Pain

Generally speaking, a survival pack is intended to help get one from one location to another quickly. This means that mobility is a priority. The lighter the pack, the easier it is to move. Furthermore, lighter packs require less caloric expenditure to carry and decrease the risk of injury while carrying them.

I’ve heard many suggest that as a rule of thumb these packs should be no more than 10% of the person’s body weight.

Selecting a Pack

With the principles covered, we can now look at what to get. I’m going to start with the pack. This is a little bit like putting the cart before the horse because the pack has to be large enough to hold all of the kits. However, what pack to get is the most frequent question I get. Additionally, a common mistake that I see is folks often buy a larger pack than they need and then feel compelled to stuff it full creating a pack that hinders mobility due to its excessive weight. Lastly, folks often opt for a tactical pack that is completely covered with PALS webbing which, in my opinion, is a mistake because it draws unwanted attention.

My suggestion is to get something that looks like a backpack or a run of the mill hiking pack with a strong preference for the former.

Hiking packs, again in my opinion, draw more attention than regular backpacks. The less attention I draw the better. Additionally, hiking packs often include a waist belt. While a waist belt can add comfort and stability by putting some of the weight directly on the hips, they also block or hinder access to items worn on the beltline such as a concealed firearm. Assuming the pack is kept to 10% of one’s body weight or less, a waist belt isn’t all that beneficial and the lighter the pack the less it becomes necessary.

In terms of size, something along the lines of a day pack is ideal. With the right equipment and sufficient skill, a day pack is large enough to carry enough resources for 48 to 72 hours of travel without looking like it’s filled to the brim. In terms of volume, I’d suggest something between a 24L pack and a 30L pack or thereabouts.

Here are a few suggestions for a pack:

• Eberlestock Little Trick
• Mystery Ranch Catalyst 26
• 5.11 Covrt 18 2.0

Again, these are suggestions based on my preferences and what I would probably get given my environment and knowledge. You can certainly go bigger if you think these are too small for your needs. You can also opt for a pack with a waist belt. Tactical garb is fine if not concerned about drawing attention. Whatever the case, it would be prudent to put the equipment kits together first before spending money on a pack that might be too small or too large.

Kits

There are several kits that go into a survival pack. Let’s break them down.

First Aid Kit

I’m going to start with the first aid kit because it contains the casualty care items that are needed to stop a severe bleed which is the highest priority threat to survival. In this kit, we will also include things to help with breaks, burns, blisters, bites and other general boo boos that can impede mobility. It will also include medical items that going without could become life threatening.

Now before getting into this kit, I strongly urge folks to make a personal trauma kit part of their everyday carry, or EDC. That is we should have the ability to stop a severe bleed at any moment regardless of where we are even if the survival pack isn’t within reach. Consider the scenario where one stops to get gas and goes into the stop and rob store to pay for the gas and pick up a few items when things go south and there is an armed robbery resulting in a gunfight where one catches a bullet. Making it back to the vehicle where the survival pack is serving as a get home bag may not happen if one doesn’t have a way to stop the bleeding right then and there.

Options for an on-person carry trauma kit that can be part of one’s EDC include:

• A Solatac PTK (personal trauma kit) coupled with a NAR C-A-T or SOF tourniquet
• One of the many “ankle kits” offered by Mountain Man Medical

Whether or not an on person trauma kit is carried, I suggest the complete survival pack (which includes the EDC components) includes the following…

Two Tourniquets

More specifically any combination of two tourniquets made up of:

• North American Rescue Combat Application Tourniquet (C-A-T), or
• TacMed SOF Tourniquet (SOF-T)

Why two? Because sometimes applying a second tourniquet is necessary to stop a severe bleed. This is not uncommon on appendages with larger circumferences.

Why these two specifically? These are the only two that I consistently hear emergency medical professionals betting their lives on.

Of the two, I prefer the SOF-T because it packs down a little better taking up a little less space.

SWAT-T tourniquets which are often found in many popular bleeding control kits don’t have the same track record, but can be used effectively for applying direct pressure.

Trauma Kit

Additional casualty care items that I would include in the first aid kit for dealing with traumatic injuries are:

• Two pairs of nitrile gloves – because sometimes they tear when putting them on or an injury may need a second pair of hands assuming a second pair is available (consider this reason #123,456 refuting the lone wolf strategy).
• A pressure bandage or pressure dressing – to keep space and weight down I will suggest a H&H Mini Compression Bandage, but a TacMed Compact Trauma Bandage, a North American Rescue Emergency Trauma Dressing, or an Israeli-Style Emergency Pressure Bandage will also work.
• A chest seal (front and back) like a HyFin Vent Compact Chest Seal.
• Extra gauze – I like Dynarex Compressed Krinkle Gauze for a good amount of gauze in a compact package, but any sterile gauze works just as well.
• A hemostatic dressing – while I like ChitoGauze, but take your pick between that and Celox or QuickClot.
• A pair of trauma shears.
• A mini black marker to mark the time on a tourniquet or taking other emergency medical notes.

Depending on your medical training or the training of those who will travel with you (with their own survival pack) and after considering the legal licensing requirements, then you may want to consider adding:

• A nasopharyngeal airway (NPA) and lube.
• A chest decompression needle.

Access and organization is going to be key because when these resources are needed, they are needed right f#@k!ng now! This is why I think it’s a good idea to keep as much of this stuff on your person and the rest in the pack. For one person carry, I like the pocket sleeves and ankle cuffs made by The Wilderness. Depending on how much ends up in the pack then consider a simple nylon zipper bag up to a purpose built trauma kit pouch.

A Shemagh

A shemagh is a multipurpose item that should be included in a survival pack. Consider adding two. One in orange if possible.

From a first aid kit perspective, a shemagh can be used as a sling or for splinting. It can also be used to cool one down using evaporative cooling.

Additional uses include:

• To keep the sun off of you when used as a head and shoulder covering making it a part of the shelter kit.
• To pre-filter water making it a part of the water kit.
• An orange one can be used to increase visibility when signaling for help or assistance or as a marker making it a part of the communications kit.

Burns, Bites, and Other Boo Boos

Lots of little boo boos happen all the time. Things like minor cuts, scrapes, and burns. Then there is the occasional insect bite. Most of these things are annoyances at most. However, they can slow us down. In fact, one minor thing that is often overlooked that can really slow us down is blisters which will happen especially to those of us who aren’t used to walking extended distances in short periods of time. Then there is the risk of infection which is never fun and can be even more problematic during emergencies when medical services are overwhelmed.

For these reasons, I think a small ultra-light weight boo boo kit, while optional, is worthwhile. In my mind it should include:

• A few adhesive bandages,
• pre-cut Moleskin
• a couple of antiseptic towelettes,
• triple antibiotic ointment,
• sting and bite wipes or pads,
• burn cream,
• diphenhydramine (cause allergies are annoying),
• loperamide HCl (cause walking with the runs isn’t gonna be a good time),
• ibuprofen and acetaminophen (cause aches and pains),
• and tweezers.

My preference is for individually wrapped items that can be neatly placed in a small container.

Adventure Medical Kits makes a small single person kit that comes close to fitting the bill called the First Aid 0.5 kit. The best part about this kit is that it comes in a neat little tin that doesn’t take up much room and can be refilled easily. It is missing burn cream and the over-the-counter pills mentioned in the list, but that can be remedied with a few quick searches on Amazon or browsing through the first aid supplies at Mountain Man Medical.

Tossing a half a dozen individually wrapped insect repellent wipes into the boo boo kit is worth considering as well.

Prescriptions and Other Life Saving Medications

I suspect some folks reading this will probably roll their eyes and think that the folks who need to worry about making sure their prescriptions are included in their survival pack then those folks are just not gonna make it (NGMI) in a sh!t hits the fan (SHTF) situation. There is some truth in that opinion. Being in poor physical health or having medical conditions is going to make things more difficult and more risky, but that doesn’t mean one shouldn’t prepare and have a survival kit.

The thing to keep in mind is that in a situation where a survival pack is needed there is a chance one will likely not be home for a good while. It might be a few days.

So with that in mind, adding three to four days of prescription medications to the survival pack is a good idea. Just remember to keep them organized and accessible depending on their priority. For example, if you happen to be extremely allergic to certain insect stings or other substances that would require the immediate use of something like an EpiPen and you are likely to encounter them on a trek to the safe destination, then it would be prudent to keep that life saving medication as easily accessible as that first tourniquet.

Things can get more complicated for those who require medications that need to be refrigerated, but even those tend to have travel packs available. These sorts of medications will require more planning, more space, and create additional challenges that require consideration and are beyond the scope of my knowledge.

Shelter Kit

The shelter kit provides protection against the elements which is something that depending on climate conditions can become life threatening a matter of hours. This kit is to help us maintain core body temperature while guarding against heat related illness or hypothermia. In some cases, it will work in conjunction with the fire kit which we will cover soon to do that. This kit will also allow us to sleep which may be required depending on the distance we are traveling or dictated by how long we have to stay put for help to arrive.

The core components of this kit are:

• A poncho (preferably one with grommets),
• a poncho liner (a swagman roll or woobie works great),
• a bivy sack (although it can be substituted with a 6mm 55 gal drum liner or complimented with one in colder weather),
• paracord (a 100′ yank preconfigured into a ridge line and individual 6′ sections),
• #36 bank line (a 100′ for expendable cordage),
• and six tent stakes.

Strongly encouraged, but optional, components include:

• A survival blanket – which can be used as the primary shelter cover or to reflect heat as needed to combat extreme cold (if this is foregone, then strongly consider adding a lightweight mylar blanket for heat reflection and combating extreme cold),
• a pair of leather working gloves to protect the hands against injury (and avoiding direct contact with things like poison ivy),
• a spare pair wool socks,
• a spare t-shirt (note than an oversized hunter orange shirt is a great way to help rescuers locate you),
• and that shemagh or two that’s already mentioned.

All of these items work in conjunction to provide layers while we are moving. For example, if it starts raining, then the poncho can be used to keep one and their gear from getting drenched. If it’s cold, then the poncho liner can be worn to help trap body heat. If it’s cold and raining, then both of those items can be used together. Sun is beating down on you? The shemagh can be used to provide shade for one’s head and shoulders.

At the same time, the poncho or survival blanket can be used to build a shelter to sleep under, while the poncho liner can be used to sleep in, and the bivy (or drum liner) can be filled with leaves and other collected foliage and used as something to sleep on. The paracord, bank line, and stakes are used to secure the shelter structure. In colder weather, the bivy sack can be used as another layer to sleep in to trap more body heat while the filled drum liner is used to sleep on.

Water Kit

As you may have guessed, the water kit is important to protect against dehydration which can become life threatening in a matter of days. While technically speaking, we could go without it even for a couple of days. Cognitive processing and motor functions begin to deteriorate long before one dies of thirst. Additionally, water isn’t just for drinking. It’s sometimes used for first aid in the form of evaporative cooling. It’s also needed for sanitization. And it comes in handy for cooking even though stopping to cook a meal should be avoided if at all possible to maximize movement towards the destination.

Solving the water problem isn’t always easy. We have to be able to transport enough between opportunities for replenishment but carrying too much hinders movement since it’s heavy. Again, the more weight we transport the higher our caloric expenditure is. Opportunities for replenishment are going to depend on the local environment, current climate conditions, and travel route.

Lastly we also require redundant methods of making replenished water safe to drink. Especially when it is sourced from questionable sources.

There are several ways to set up the water kit to accommodate the seasonal and environmental variables, but generally speaking we need:

• Containers – yes, multiple for redundancy and ideally a couple of the containers can be placed over a fire for thermal purification.
• A pre-filter – to keep the purification filter from clogging up; the shemagh fills this role nicely, but a millbank bag works as well.
• A purification filter.

As an example, a water kit might container:

• A single-walled stainless-steel water bottle or canteen (container #1 which can be used for thermal purification).
• A stainless-steel nesting cup that the bottle or canteen can nest in (container #2 which can be used for thermal purification).
• A Grayl GeoPress (container #3 and purification filter).
• A shemagh (a pre-filter)

I like that setup quite a bit since the combination of the shemagh and Grayl can filter water pretty quickly to fill the stainless-steel bottle and Grayl. This allows thermal purification, which is slower and requires a stop, to remain as a backup purification process for redundancy. Remember, the name of the game is to cover as much distance as possible in the shortest amount of time.

The Grayl GeoPress gives a lot of folks sticker shock. I think it’s well worth the money. If you don’t, then I would suggest a second stainless-steel container combined with a Sawyer filter.

Chemical purification via water purification tablets is worth considering as yet another redundancy. However, it is not nearly as fast as filtration with something like the Grayl.

Consider adding a water reservoir and an attachable filter if larger quantities of water need to be transported. This setup can be used to set up a gravity filter to refill other containers. A hydration bladder will also work, but a filled bladder takes up space inside the pack (whereas a reservoir can be attached to the outside of the pack or slung over a shoulder) requiring a larger pack.

Dry bags and drum liners can also be used to collect and transport additional un-purified water.

Fire Kit

The next priority is a fire kit. While it can certainly help with preparing calories for consumption, that is pretty low on the priority list when the survival pack is functioning as a get home or bug out bag. More on that when we get to the food kit.

A fire kit is multifunctional. It plays a role in first aid when a heat source is needed to maintain core body temperature. It plays a role in water purification to enable the backup purification process. It can also be used for signaling to make one’s location visible in the dark.

Fire kits have become pretty standardized thanks to bushcrafting communities. Here is what a typical one looks like:

• Two Bic lighters – one in your pants pocket (that should be a part of your EDC) and a spare in the pack.
• A ferrocerium rod – larger ones are easier to use so I suggest a 1/2″x6″ rod; also add a tungsten striker unless you are certain you can use items from your tools kit to make it throw sparks.
• A fresnel lens – harnessing the power of the sun when possible preserves the fuel in the lighter and the sparks in the ferro rod.
• An easy to light in all conditions tinder source – I like the Pathfinder Mini Inferno waxed cotton discs.

Tools Kit

A few tools will come in handy for a lot of things. If for nothing else, then they will be used at a minimum to set up shelter and if need be to start a fire.

There are a lot of opinions about the essential tools to put in a survival kit. Like with everything else, the “right” tools will depend on your environment and your skills. Regardless, most of the tools I’ve seen used successfully appear to have a Nessmuk trio influence. If you don’t know who Nessmuk is, then I suggest picking up a copy of arguably the best-known book on camping, Woodcraft, written by George W Sears (also known as Nessmuk).

At any rate, the traditional Nessmuk trio is made up of a fixed-blade knife, a hatchet (or small axe), and a jackknife (a pocket knife with two blades). The idea is to have redundant tools to cover all the common camping related tasks. Things like processing wood, starting a fire, and preparing food. The trio is meant to be adaptable, simple, and multi-functional. Today we have a much broader set of tools to pick from than what was available in the 1800s when Nessmuk came up with his trio. To that end, here is what I would throw in the survival pack to help with those tasks while keeping weight and caloric consumption to a minimum:

• A full-tang fixed-blade belt knife – something along the lines of a Mora Garberg, an Esee 4, or a LT Wright Bushcrafter.
• A folding saw (instead of a hatchet) like a Bahco Laplander or Silky GomBoy.
• And a Swiss Army Knife or a multi-tool (but not both) – I’m looking for at least a backup knife blade, backup saw blade, and an awl.

One more thing I would add is a roll of 1″ Gorilla Tape. While this doesn’t fit in with the Nessmuk trio, it comes in handy for repairs. It can also be used to help start a fire since it’s flammable. In a pinch, it can also be used for first aid.

Navigation Kit

We have to get where we are going and we have to make sure we are moving in the right direction. Conversely, we need to know where we are and be able to effectively communicate our location with others if we are waiting for assistance.

To that end, the map app and GPS features on the supercomputers we carry in our pockets, better known as smartphones, are terrific for that. At least, when they work. The most likely reason they will stop working is because they run out of juice. So throwing a dependable power bank in the survival pack is good insurance.

However, sometimes smartphones stop working because they get damaged. Other times, cellular signal is not available. Whatever the case, a smartphone is not enough.

Enter the dying art of land navigation – which you should learn how to do if you don’t know how to already.

A navigation will require:

• A good easy-to-use compass – like a Suunto MC-2 compass (this is not the place to cheap out).
• A set of pace beads.
• An all weather notebook.
• All weather writing implements – like a couple of mechanical pencils.
• And maps – topographical maps to be precise, but up to date road maps don’t hurt either.

Communication (and Signaling) Kit

I’m going to combine signaling with communication because signaling is a form of communication. Additionally, we have already covered several items in the pack that can be used for signaling like: an orange shemagh, an oversized orange t-shirt, and fire. Furthermore, if you opted for the Suunto MC-2 compass, then the built-in mirror can also be used for signaling. The only thing left to add for signaling is:

• A headlamp – because hands free lighting is amazing and it serves as a redundant lighting solution to that handheld light we all have in our EDC, right?
• Spare batteries in storage caddies for the headlamp (and the EDC handheld light) – I’m not a fan of rechargeable lights because you can’t get them back up and running as fast when the juice runs out while they are in use.

While once again, the smartphone in our pockets works well for receiving and sending information. It may not be functional.

Y’all probably already guessed where I’m going next. So before the sad HAMs get all bent out of shape for suggesting the inclusion of a sub $20 Baofeng UV-5R radio in the survival kit, I’m going to point out the fact that there are laws and regulations for operating a radio. As such, those who opt to go this route should look into becoming a licensed HAM radio technician (which is easy enough and relatively inexpensive) or accept the legal and regulatory consequences (in addition to the wrath of the sad HAMs) associated with unlicensed use.

There is a fair bit to radio communications that is well beyond the scope of this already excessively lengthy blog post. Additionally, the Baofeng UV-5R, while being a capable and inexpensive radio, is far from being intuitively easy to use. To that end, I suggest picking up a copy of NC Scout’s book, The Guerrilla’s Guide to the Baofeng Radio.

Those who prefer not to go the route of a two-way radio might want to consider including an emergency weather radio in their survival pack.

Food Kit

We are almost done and this kit is easy. Pack enough light-weight calorie-dense food that can be consumed on the go.

While SOS Emergency Rations aren’t the best tasting things in the world, a 3600-calorie 72-hour package doesn’t take up a lot of room and will get the job done.

For a little morale boost, add a couple of freeze dried camping meal packages to refuel when one stops for a little shut eye. Many of them can be prepared by just adding water, but if a fire is already built for heat or water purification then there is no harm in making it a warm meal. Don’t forget a long handled spoon to shovel the rehydrated goodness into the pie hole.

Hygiene Kit

This kit is entirely optional, but worth considering. Especially since it can be a good morale booster.

Keep it simple, small and light. Like a small bag containing things like:

• A travel toothbrush and tube of toothpaste.
• Camping soap.
• MRE toilet paper.
• Some wet ones.

But, What About <Insert Thing Here>?

First off, if you are gonna ask, “What about firearms?” Then I’m going to ask, “What about them?” Give it a little thought. Firearms are definitely within the realm of survival especially in get home and bug out scenarios. However, let’s remember the primary goal: to get from one location to the next as quickly as possible. As such, the primary role of a firearm is for self defense. That also happens to be primary role of the EDC handgun which is small, light, and portable and should already be on our person.

In my opinion, that EDC handgun is sufficient in most cases. Adding a long gun adds weight and also draws additional attention. Furthermore, in get home scenarios there won’t be a long gun to grab. Those who do the “truck gun” thing, which I consider a bad practice for the majority of folks, are potentially the exception to that.

Are there exceptions where it would be prudent to take a long gun with you? Sure, the potential for scenarios where superior firepower is not only beneficial, but preferred and advisable, always exists.

All that said, if you want to take a long gun with you and are willing to deal with the additional weight and potential attention, then go for it.

Other than that and unless it is something specific to your situation making it a certain need, most other “what abouts” are going to fall under: you’re not going to need it. Don’t go adding weight if it’s not essential. That 64 ounce bottle of your favorite hair product need not apply.

Anything Else?

There is one final thing, put some cash in the survival pack. A lot of folks don’t regularly carry cash. Unfortunately when the grid is down and credit cards can’t be accepted, cash is king. Unless one happens to be going from one remote location to another without passing a single populated area (including a tiny rural town), then chances are a little cash can go a long way in replenishing supplies or securing a service that can aid in our travels.

I know. This was a very long post and there is a lot here. Worst of all, the items listed aren’t comprehensive.

The thing is there is no silver bullet here. Every survival pack is going to be a little different depending on one’s needs, skills, environment, season, and the distance that needs to be traveled. It’s imperative to have a well defined mission and to stick to the principles. Every survival pack is going to have the required kits. Each kit can be trimmed down to the essentials as needed to keep the weight down to a minimum.

Perhaps the most important thing that is often overlooked and rarely practiced (at least in my anecdotal observations) is that the survival packs aren’t tested.

Go ahead and put it on? If that was a struggle, then it’s probably too heavy and needs to be reduced.

Next, go for a walk with it on? If you find yourself a little winded, then trim out more items if possible and start working on improving your conditioning. Yeah, make going for walks or hikes with the pack a regular thing.

Finally, go camping overnight with it – even if it’s in your own backyard. Set up the shelter. Start a fire. Practice purifying water. Try out one of those emergency rations or a freeze dried camping meal. Vet that gear and figure out what skills need work.